by Jeanne Gehret
by Jeanne Gehret
A few weeks ago, we stepped aboard the Chautauqua Belle, one of the last operating sternwheel steamboats in North America, and took a trip back in time. Our two-hour round trip from Mayville, NY to the Chautauqua Institution and back promised a day of sun, water, and history—and it delivered.
We boarded under a cloudless sky, the Belle’s broad red paddlewheel already churning the lake into a white froth. As she gave a loud whistle, we watched the paddles begin to ease us away from the dock. The breeze was warm, the water glittered, and the pace slowed to that of the nineteenth century.
Our excursion reminded me of the day Daniel Read Anthony and his friends in the Emigrant Aid Society stepped off a steamboat onto Kansas soil in July 1854. Their plan? To populate the state with antislavery men and women who would sway the vote to make Kansas a free state. Though the conflict grew bloody, in 1861 that dream became a reality.
Sternwheels like the Chautauqua Belle regularly stopped at Anthony’s home in Leavenworth, KS on the Missouri River. These vessels were perfect for inland rivers because they could operate in water as shallow as eighteen inches. Besides that, the one big paddlewheel at the rear (as opposed to one wheel on each side) wheel was less likely to hit sanbard, snags, or rocks that characterized that river.
Scenic Shores and a Historic Institution
The shoreline slid past—shaded porches, weathered docks, flags stirring lazily in the wind. Gulls circled overhead. From the breezy lower deck, we listened to the steady splash of the paddlewheel was as soothing as a lullaby.
Halfway through the cruise, the Chautauqua Institution came into view. Behind me, you can see the Institution’s graceful Victorian buildings, tree-lined promenades, and the hum of activity on the shore. Founded in 1874 as a summer retreat for learning, arts, and spiritual renewal, it’s part of a wider tradition.
From Martha’s Vineyard to Chautauqua: Voices for Change
The famous Cottage City on Martha’s Vineyard (pictured above) began much the same way. In 1858, Annie Anthony’s fellow islanders stood in a seaside crowd there, listening to Josiah Henson, the formerly enslaved man whose life inspired Uncle Tom’s Cabin. His voice carried over the salt air, calling for justice and freedom—proof that gatherings like these, whether on the Vineyard or at Chautauqua, were about far more than summer leisure. They were places where ideas stirred, convictions deepened, and lives were changed.
After a pause to admire the Institution’s shoreline, we turned for home. The afternoon sun slanted low over the hills, and the water turned silver. Passengers leaned on the rail, lost in the rhythm of the wheel and the quiet sweep of the lake.
Cruising the Chautauqua Belle isn’t just sightseeing. It’s the sound of a steam whistle echoing over the water, the hiss of an engine, the brush of history against your cheek. If you find yourself in western New York, step aboard—you’ll leave with more than just a pretty view.
If you enjoyed this mini-travelog, watch this space for my upcoming article in The Historic Traveler, an online destination for people who love travel, history, and historic novels. My story’s still in the writing stage, but in the meantime you can enjoy the current edition.
Other Stories for Your Reading List
In these curated collections, you can find “The Urgent Plea from Susan B.,” the prequel to Born of This Fire. Download these today as this promotion ends August 30th.
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